Dries Van Noten autumn/winter 2010/11 collection

By Hilary Alexander, Fashion Director at Paris Fashion Week Published: 4:40PM GMT 03 March 2010

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The ancestral Hotel de Ville (town hall) in Paris site, given 1357, of the citys administration, not to discuss an indirect series or dual and thousands of weddings was the environment for dual hostile conform forces.

On the opening day of the Paris prêt-à-porter deteriorate for autumn/winter 2010/11, the Belgian designer, Dries Van Noten, tied together troops impulse and 1940s/50s haute couture, in a pick up that offset only the right brew of manly and feminine.

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His models strode by the grand, 19th century, gilded and cherub-infested "Salle des Fetes", in an startling multiple of army-green cotton, interconnected with hand-painted, floral silk, that easily referenced the "New Look" of Christian Dior in 1947. It competence receptive to advice bizarre, but it was beautiful.

Multi-buckled "fatigue" trousers came with tailored jackets with nipped-in waists and generosity over the hips, in grey cashmere; and black nap "cocoon" coats surfaced elastic-hemmed PT trousers.

Military shirts, in khaki, were ragged with extravagant, full, skirts only covering the knee, hand-painted in intolerable pinkish and violet over floral prints, with rustling petticoats underneath.

Garbo-esque, hooded raincoats, firmly belted and assumingly functional, featured a curtsy to an impracticable troops past, with Napoleonic sleeves, encrusted with china embroidery.

Leopard-print offering a counterpoint to the troops and floral theme, looming as small scarves and belted waistcoats.

For some-more character impulse from Dries Van Noten revisit Fashion Shop